Spring Babies are on their way and I want to help you get ready with a fresh new applique design to put on those baby blankets! “Baby Elmer the Elephant” is the perfect crochet applique for all the new princes who will be honoring us with their presence this year!
Isn't he adorable! This crochet applique is sure to bring a smile to many new mamma's faces! You can use this applique on blankets, pillows, signs, banners, diaper bags and more! He is so cute and versatile! I am certain he will be a nice addition to any baby shower decor as well!
This pattern is easy to customize! You can easily change the position of the crown, the heart, and the trunk to to get different looks just as my testers did! Here are a couple photos from my Sweet Hart’s Creations VIP Testers!
Those are great looking baby elephant’s aren’t they! So I bet you are ready to get started on this Sweet Hart's pattern!
Here is the pattern:
Baby Elmer Elephant Pattern
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
FINISHED SIZE: Approx 11” tall and 10“ wide
MATERIALS:
This pattern is written so that you can use any #4 weight yarns you prefer. These are the yarns I used in the pattern:
1 1/2 oz. MC - (40g) #4 worsted weight yarn in color of your choice for Elephant. Pattern shown in Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
1/4 oz. CC - (7gr) #4 weight yarn for Diaper, Tusks, and Toes. Pattern shown with Red Heart Super Saver White.
1/8 oz. CC2 - (3gr) #4 worsted weight yarn for Crown and Heart in color of your choice. Pattern shown with Light Yellow.
⅛ oz. CC3 - 3gr) #4 worsted weight yarn for Accent lines and hair tuft. Pattern shown in Red Heart Super Saver Grey Heather.
Black Embroidery Floss or Size 10 Crochet Thread for Optional Lashes.
18mm Safety Eyes (Options: use buttons for eyes, or crochet small circles using 4ply embroidery floss or Size 10 crochet thread and a 2.5 hook. MR, ch 1, hdc 7, sl st to join. F/O)
H/5.0 and G/4.hooks
Yarn needle
Scissors
Optional Items: Stitch Markers, Beads or Jewels to decorate Crown.
STITCHES TO KNOW:
MR - Magic Ring or ch 2 work 1st round stitches in 2nd ch from hook
MC – main color
CC – contrast color
CC2 - contrast color 2
CC3 - contrast color 3
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr - treble crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two together
hdc2tog - half double crochet two together
dc2tog - double crochet two together
sk - skip a stitch
Repeat * to ** - Repeat the sequence of stitches between the asterisks
( ) – do stitches contained within ( ) all in the next stitch
#stitch name – do # of stitch named in the next stitch
EXAMPLE: 3hdc means do 3 half-double crochets in the next stitch.
Stitch name # - do stitch named in the next # of stitches
EXAMPLE: hdc 3 means do 1 half-double crochet in the next 3 stitches.
F/O – finish off and weave in ends
**NOTE** If there are any of these stitches that you are unsure of how to do, just search on Google or YouTube how to make them. There are tons of videos.
PATTERN NOTES:
Written in US terms
Beginning/turning chains DO NOT count as a stitch
If you will be sewing your pieces together be sure to leave long ends when finishing off each piece.
LEGAL STUFF:
This physical pattern is yours, but the content and it’s insert pictures are the property of Sweet Hart Creations. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. I hope they are successful sellers for you! However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link to Sweet Hart Creations pattern if you sell your finished items online. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)
IMPORTANT STUFF:
This pattern is for the appliques/items shown in the picture - it includes all applique pieces shown in the picture.
This pattern has been tested, however we are human an occasionally mistakes slip through so if you find one just let me know via the Facebook group, the comments section of this post, or via the contact page and I will be happy to correct it for you, no problem!
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
HEAD - make 1
Begin: MR with MC and H hook.
Round 1: Ch 1, 10 hdc in MR, pull ring closed tight, join to first hdc with sl st. (10)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st. (20)
Round 3: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch, 2dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2dc in next st* Repeat * to * around. Join to first dc with sl st. (30)
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch, dc, 2dc in the next st, *dc 2, 2dc in next stitch* Repeat * to * around. Join to first dc with sl st. (40)
Round 5: DO NOT CH 1, sl st into next st (mark sl st with a stitch marker), sc, hdc, 2dc, 3tr, 2dc, 2tr, tr, 2tr, 2dc, 3tr, 2dc, hdc, sc, sl st 2, sc, 2sc, hdc 3, 2hdc, hdc 2, 2sc, sc 2, 2sc (center top of head), sc 2, 2sc, hdc 2, 2hdc, hdc 3, 2sc, sc, sl st, sl st to join in marked st. (57) F/O.
EARS - make 1 LEFT, 1 RIGHT
Left Ear
Begin: With H hook and MC, Ch 9. (9)
Row 1: 2 dc in second ch from hook, dc 7. (9).
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 4, 2dc twice, dc in last st. (10)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, 2dc, dc2tog, dc 5, dc2tog. (9)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 5, 2tr twice. (10)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn, (dc, tr), tr, (tr, dc), dc, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc, hdc. (12)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc, sk 1, sl st in next 2, ch 1, sc, 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc twice, hdc, sl st in last st. (15)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sl st in next 2 st, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 3, sl st in next, leaving remaining sts unworked. (12) F/O.
Right Ear
Begin: With H hook and MC, Ch 9. (9)
Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook, dc 6, 2dc. (9)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc, 2dc twice, dc 4, dc2tog. (10)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 5, dc2tog, 2dc. (9)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, 2tr twice, dc 5, dc2tog. (10)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc, dc, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc, (dc, tr), tr, (tr, dc). (12)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, hdc, 2dc twice, 2hdc, 2sc, sc, sl st in next 2 st, ch 1, sk 1, sc, sl st in last st. (15)
Row 7: Turn, ch 1, sk 1, sl st, ch 1, sk 1, sl st 2, sc 3, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sl st, ch 1, sk 1, sl st. (17) F/O.
TRUNK - make 1
Begin: With H hook and MC, ch 21. (21)
Round 1: 3tr in 3rd ch from hook, tr, 2tr, tr, 2tr, dc2tog, dc, dc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog, sc, sc2tog twice, sc, (sl st, 2sc) in last ch. Continue around working into unworked side of ch, sl st, 2sc, sc, 2sc twice, hdc, 2hdc, hdc 2, 2hdc, dc 3, 2dc, 2tr (mark first tr), 2tr, tr, 2tr, 2tr in same st as starting 3tr. Sl st join to top of first tr. (50) F/O.
Round 2: Sl st join in marked st, sc in next st, 2sc, hdc, 2hdc, 2dc, 2tr five times, 2dc, 2hdc, hdc, 2sc, sc, sl st in next st leaving remaining sts unworked. (28) F/O.
BODY- make 1
Begin: With H hook and MC, ch 8. (8)
Row 1: 2dc in second ch from hook, dc 5, 2dc in last ch. (9)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, 2dc, dc 7, 2dc. (11)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, 2dc, 8 dc, 2dc, dc. (13)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, dc 13. (13)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn, dc 11, 2dc twice. (15)
Row 6: Ch 2, turn, dc, 2dc twice, dc 10, dc2tog. (16)
Row 7: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 10, 2dc, dc, dc2tog. (15)
Row 8: Ch 2, turn, dc, dc2tog twice, dc 7, dc2tog, dc. (12)
Row 9: Ch 2, turn, dc, dc2tog, dc 6, dc2tog, ch 2, sl st in last st. (11) F/O.
BACK LEG - make 1
Begin: With MC and H hook, ch 9. (9)
Round 1: 5dc in second ch from hook, dc 6 (the ch for your first dc may be partially hidden by the 5dc), 5dc in last ch. Continue around, working into unworked side of ch, dc 6, sl st join to first dc. (22)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2sc in same st, 2hdc, (hdc, dc), (dc, 2tr), (dc, hdc), sc 2, 2sc, hdc, (hdc, dc), 2dc, (dc, tr), 2tr twice, (tr, 2dc), (dc, hdc), sc 2, sl st 3, leave remaining sts unworked. (36 ) F/O.
FRONT LEG - make 1
Begin: With MC and H hook, ch 9. (9)
Round 1: 3hdc in second ch from hook, hdc 6 (the ch for your first hdc may be partially hidden by the 3hdc), 5hdc in last ch. Continue around, working into the unworked side of ch, hdc 6, 2hdc in last ch, join with sl st to first hdc. (22)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2hdc in same st as ch, 2hdc twice, hdc 6, 2hdc, (dc, tr), (tr, hdc), (forms pointed toe of foot), sc 2, 2sc (heel formed), sc, hdc 6, 2hdc in same st as ch 2, sl st to top of first hdc to join. (31) F/O.
TOES FOR FRONT & BACK LEGS - make 2
Begin: With G hook and CC, ch 4. (4)
Row 1: (2dc, ch 1, sl st) in second ch from hook, sk 1, (sl st, ch 1, 2dc, ch1, sl st) in last st. (10) F/O.
NOTE: Toe section will naturally curve, you will straighten it during application to foot.
DIAPER - make 1
Begin: With H hook and CC, ch 14. (14)
Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook, dc 10, 2dc twice. (15)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc, 2dc twice, dc 10, dc2tog. (16)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 10, 2dc, dc, dc2tog. (15)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, dc, dc2tog twice, dc 7, dc2tog, dc. (12)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn, dc, dc2tog, dc 6, dc2tog, ch 2, sl st in last st. (11) F/O.
TUSKS
Left Tusk - make 1
Begin: With CC and G hook, ch 6. (6)
Row 1: Sl st into second ch from hook, sc, 2hdc twice, hdc. (7) F/O.
Right Tusk - make 1
Begin: With CC and G hook, Ch 8. (8)
Row 1: Sl st into second ch from hook, sc, hdc2tog twice,hdc. (5) F/O.
TAIL:
Begin: With MC and H hook, ch 5. (5)
Row 1: Sl st into second ch from hook, sl st, sc2tog. (3) F/O
FINISHING TAIL:
Cut 2 strands of MC yarn 3-4” long.
Hold strands together and fold in half.
Insert hook through tip of tail from front to back and catch the folded loop of strands.
Pull loop through the tip of the tail.
Grab the ends of the strands and pull them through the loop.
Pull strands to tighten.
Cut to desired length.
HEART TO HOLD WITH TRUNK: make 1
Begin: MR With CC2 and H hook,
Round 1: Ch 2, 2dc, 2hdc, 1dc, 2hdc, 2dc all in the magic ring. Ch 2 and sl st into your magic ring. Pull ring closed tightly and adjust your heart’s stitches as needed. F/O.
CROWN: make 1
Begin: With H hook and CC2, ch 8. (8)
Round 1: 3Sc in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc, 3sc in last st. Continue around, working into unworked side of ch, sc 5, sl st join to first sc. (17)
Continue working in rows
Row 1: Ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc 2, 2hdc, hdc 2, 2hdc, leave remaining sts unworked. (10)
Working First Point of Crown:
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc, 2sc, sc, leaving remaining sts unworked. Mark last sc worked with a stitch marker. (4)
Row 3: Ch1, turn, hdc2tog twice. (2)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, sl st in same st. (5) F/O
Working Middle Point of Crown:
Begin: Join with a sl st in same space as marked st from Row 1, remove stitch marker.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, sc 5, leaving remaining sts unworked. Mark last sc worked with a stitch marker. (6)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc 2, hdc2tog. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog twice. (2)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, sl st in same st. (5) F/O
Working Third Point of Crown:
Begin: Join with a sl st in same space as marked st from Row 1 in middle point of crown, remove stitch marker.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, 2sc, sc. (4)
Row 3: Ch1, turn, hdc2tog twice. (2)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, sl st in same st. (5) F/O.
FINAL PREP
Gather all your crocheted pieces, your safety eyes, jewels, adornments desired, and glue if you are using it, together.
Make sure all your loose ends are worked in depending on what finishing technique you are using.
If gluing your applique together you will want to have no loose ends.
If sewing your pieces together be sure to leave your long tails out for sewing!
During assembly you can hold pieces in place with your fingers or T-pins to help secure them.
Lay out your main pieces of Elmer Elephant to see how you would like the finished piece to look before attaching. This preliminary look will show you how you want your finished Elephant to look and where you may want to add additional adornments so you will be able to have everything ready.
Tilted Head? With or Without Diaper?
Here’s where you get to decide!
ASSEMBLY
Begin by assembling the BODY.
Attach the TOES to FRONT LEG and BACK LEG.
Line up the edges of the DIAPER with the lower portion of the BODY and attach it.
Line up your LEGS with your BODY.
The FRONT LEG should follow the natural line from the BODY down, see dotted line.
The FOOT of the FRONT LEG and the BACK LEG should follow and imaginary horizontal line representing the surface Elmer Elephant is sitting on.
Once you are satisfied with LEG placement, carefully remove the BACK LEG without disturbing the FRONT LEG. Attach FRONT LEG.
Re position BACK LEG and attach.
Set BODY aside and begin assembling the HEAD.
Lay out your HEAD and EARS.
NOTE the TOP and BOTTOM of the HEAD.
Make sure the EARS are lined up with each other by matching points on each side of the HEAD as indicated by the arrows.
When satisfied, attach EARS.
Next take your HEAD and BODY, along with the TRUNK and lay them out. Play around and see what position you like while slightly overlapping the HEAD onto the BODY.
All along I’ve been tilting the head to the left, but found I really like it tilted right! Bring out the personal character of your Elmer Elephant!
When your Elmer makes you smile, attach the HEAD!
Place the TUSKS just below the edges of the TRUNK matching the bottom of each TUSK to the indent on the TRUNK. (See arrows.)
Attach TUSKS.
Position your TRUNK evenly on Elmer’s face and attach.
TIME FOR SOME DETAILING
To add more character your ELMER ELEPHANT you can use embroidery floss or CC3 yarn to stitch on a few details such as wrinkle lines on the TRUNK and LEGS, and lines inside the EARS.
If you want eyelashes - YOU MUST SEW THEM ON BEFORE ATTACHING SAFETY EYES!
To make eyelashes use embroidery floss, black crochet thread, or 1 ply of yarn.
Decide where you want to place your eyes and make sure the inside point of your lashes falls behind the edge of each eye so you don’t have floating eyelashes (empty space between the lashes and the eye).
Use one hole for the inside edge of all your lashes so they stay centered.
Stitch and F/O on the back of your project.
Place and set SAFETY EYE making sure there are no gaps between lashes and eye. Step back, double check that they are even, and then and only then, attach the backs of the safety eyes!
Make second eye to coordinate with the first eye.
If not adding Optional Eyelashes: Attach your SAFETY EYES where you like them. I would advise setting each eye through the crochet stitches where you think you may want them. Step back, double check that they are even, and then and only then, attach the backs of the safety eyes!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Attaching the backs of your SAFETY EYES too early can result in your eyes not being where you want them! Once the backs are pushed on to the safety eyes they can not be removed!
Attach a “TUFT of HAIR” at the top of the elephant’s HEAD.
Cut a few 6” strand of MC.
Fold two strands in half holding them together.
Insert hook from front to back of edge stitch on head and pull up a loop.
Draw strands through the loop and pull tight.
Add as many strands as you like for your “TUFT”.
Cut individual strands to random lengths from ½” to 1 ½”.
Attach completed TAIL where you like on the BABY ELEPHANT’s behind
Decorate CROWN with beads or gems if you like, but remember that small pieces can become choking hazards so please use caution.
Place CROWN off to side on HEAD. Attach.
Attach HEART to TRUNK.
Congratulations!
Your Baby Elmer Elephant
Is Now Complete!
I hope you enjoyed making your baby elephant and I look forward to seeing all your finished photos! Please feel free to share them in the Sweet Hart's Creations VIP Group! We all love seeing one each others work!
And do not forget that if you would like to become a tester of great patterns like these you will get early access to these types of designs plus the bonus of a PDF file! I love having great testers with both wonderful crochet skills and proofreading skills and welcome you anytime!
Also, be sure to subscribe so that you do not miss Baby Elmer's sister "Ella!" She will be joining us on the blog next week and I am so excited to share her with you!
Well that is all I have for you today! Thanks again for joining me here at "Sweet Hart's Creations! I look forward to seeing you again next week!
Love,
Jean
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